The Families That Fed a City: Farming Legacies of Western St. John's

I grew up in Kilbride, a place I am proud to be from, even today, despite the first three years of my life being spent in Seal Cove. My family moved into what could be considered the rural part of the west end of St. John’s in 1976.

When I was old enough to ride a bike, the top of my street, ironically, was Kilbride Avenue, which led to a farm gate. My avenue was one of three residential areas that surrounded it, and it was my earliest recollection of what a farm was and what happened there.

As a kid, it was a forbidden place to visit. My dad always told me not to walk on a farmer's field, saying that the land makes the farmer's food or someone else's. He didn't know then that most of the neighbourhood kids crossed through that poor farmer’s field to access activities at the Lions Club on Fahey Street. When you are a kid, a shortcut is a shortcut.

I remember as a kid watching the spreader during harvest time and the machine that made hay. However, it was always a special event when the farmer's tractor with the manure trailer went up our street. “Hey look it's the poop trailer some kid would yell.” We would all plug our noses with one hand and wave to the farmer with the other. I remember the farmer laughing at the sight of us as he momentarily stepped down to open the fence.

Urban Sprawl

In the late 1980s, the farm transitioned into three small residential subdivisions that officially connected Kilbride Avenue through Silverton Street to Old Petty Harbour Road on one side and Fahey Street (which kids would mistakenly call "Fatty Street" when I was growing up) on the other. It was beneficial for commuters but detrimental to the farmers' way of life.

I didn't realize it then, but years later, I discovered that the west end of St. John's, including Kilbride, Goulds, and Waterford Valley, were once rural agricultural workhorse centres fueled by a strong work ethic, grit, and neighbourhood will.

A Life Measured by Harvests

During the 1800s and into the 20th century, these lands were farmed by families such as the Maddens, Dinns, Carews, and Walshes. It was a part of the daily way of life.

These farms produced milk, eggs, grew root vegetables, and made hay. And anything not consumed at home was sold in St. John's or door-to-door on Water Street.

The Local Economic Engine

These farms not only helped feed families but also powered local industry. Kilbride Farms built its reputation on its solid vegetables and fine hay. The Goulds became known as St. John's "milk belt" due to its productive dairy farming. Waterford Valley facilitated trade by inviting small-scale vegetable and dairy farming.

Coopers (a term used then to describe the carpentry trade), blacksmiths, and transport workers were among the tradespeople employed in the agricultural economy. They were especially crucial during the war when they were vital food producers, and the usual shipping routes were interrupted. 

From Furrows to Footpaths

The mid-20th century was a period of fluctuating expansion, and residential areas eventually replaced farms. Kilbride's population was approximately 438 in 1940. That number dropped to a paltry 121 in 1956. However, in 1976, when my family moved in, the population rose to 3,958, reflecting its transformation from a rural village to an expanding residential community.

Nowadays, the population is approximately 6,234, indicating a gradual expansion over time into a fully developed suburb of St. John's. Each year saw the emergence of new housing developments and improved infrastructure, making Kilbride a vibrant community while retaining some semblance of its rural identity.

Mount Pearl’s farming legacy, in comparison

It’s hard not to mention farming in western St. John’s without mentioning it. Back then, it wasn't the city it is today, but Mount Pearl's rural agricultural origins were more concentrated. It was based on one estate that produced pigs, poultry, and seasonal crops, such as berries and Christmas trees. Its agricultural role was magnificent in the early days, but ultimately led to suburban expansion and residential development. However, some of this land was later sold to the Lester family, who still farm it today.

Conversely, Kilbride, The Goulds, and Waterford Valley were firmly established in community-based agriculture. These regions made significant contributions to food production throughout the 20th century, particularly during wartime, when local production was of paramount importance.

Therefore, while Mount Pearl expanded rapidly to become a city centre, the other three retained their rural nature for longer, shaping them into pillars of the local food economy.

However, in 1991, when the Goulds were confronted with increasing land prices, houses were demolished, and the Waterford Valley, while others vanished, was transformed into trails, backyards, and schools, sweeping away green fields. Some companies survived, while others disappeared, swept away by the green fields, and others vanished due to policy, taxation, and urban development.

The Farming Families

I don't want to give the impression that all the farming families who tilled the soil are extinct; some passed on the family legacy to younger generations. However, I am more interested in the homesteading agricultural families in my area. Who were the farming families in Kilbride, Goulds, and Waterford Valley?

Kilbride

• The Carew Farm in Kilbride had a thriving vegetable and dairy farm until the 1970s. The farm itself is long gone, but echoes of its history still linger—some of the original stonework still stands near Pine Line Road, a quiet reminder of its farming past.

• The McDonald family operated the Albany Dairy Farm at McDonald's Lane from 1897. They supplied milk, vegetables, and feed and later diversified into bulk milk ventures with about fifty head of cattle on a hundred acres of land. Jack McDonald, the founder, was a household name in Newfoundland families and was even inducted into the Atlantic Agricultural Hall of Fame.

• Another well-known name is the Walsh family, which owns Glenview Farms. They began operating in the mid-1800s and owned a big dairy farm with over 450 cows. The Walshes have been rewarded for embracing innovation and community participation despite having urban development creep onto their land

Goulds

• In The Goulds, the Dinn Family Farm was a significant contributor by supplying fresh vegetables, fruits, and dairy products to supermarkets in downtown areas. Two of its barns remain standing today, quiet testaments to an era when local farms helped fuel the city's daily life.

Waterford Valley

• The Eden family owned "Caribou Hill" on Waterford Bridge Road. They operated a grocery store at Rawlins Cross and used the house as a summer residence, travelling there by streetcar and horse-drawn buggy

• The Knowling family, led by businessman George Knowling, lived in a stately English-style mansion on the southern side of the Waterford River. The site later fell into the hands of the Outerbridge and O'Brien families before it was destroyed for highway development.

• The McNeil family had a farm and greenhouses east of Littledale, contributing to the area's agricultural crop

• Captain Graham's family owned land on either side of the Waterford River, stretching east to St. John's Lane. They owned one of the larger properties in the valley.

• The Neville farm was where Bowring Park now lies, a shift from agricultural property to public parkland.

Honouring the Legacy

Agriculture shaped Western St. John's economy, character, and culture. These stories must be shared through a walking tour, oral tradition, school project, community celebration or better yet, a museum.

As the city grows, let's remember those who fed it-with cracked hands, work-roughed boots, and stories etched in stone, earth, and memory.

To be continued….